Materials Needed

4x2 Tanalised Timber, Decking Boards, Exterior Wood Screws, Weed Membrane (if needed), Blocks (or something solid to level your decking).

Step 1: The Frame

First of all make sure the area you have chosen is as level as possible and weed free. If needed, lay some weed membrane down over the area beneath where your decking will go. Start by creating a frame using the 4x2 timber. Screw the outside of the frame together using the exterior wood screws. If making a square frame, measure from corner to corner both ways and make sure they are the same measurement.

Step 2: Raising the Frame

You will need to raise the frame up off of the ground to avoid moisture creeping into the timber. Cut 4 pieces of 4x2 timber to the height you want your decking raised. Screw these to the inside of the frame in each corner, making sure they are flush with the top of the frame. Use at least 3 screws as these legs will take all of the weight of the decking and whatever is on top of it.

Step 3: Levelling the frame

If your decking is situated on a concrete base or patio this process will be a lot easier. If it is on grass or soil you will need to put some blocks or slabs underneath each leg to avoid standing water and the legs sinking into the ground. Put a block/slab under each leg and adjust accordingly, checking with your level that the frame is level. You may need to bed these in using some sand and cement if on soft ground.

Step 4: The Joists

Measure across one side of the frame and find the centre. Mark this with your pencil. Now find the centre of the remaining two halves and mark these. Your frame should now be divided into 3. If the distance between these marks are more than a metre then you should divide again accordingly. Measure across the inside of the frame and cut your 4x2 to length. if these are tight use your hammer to tap into place. Fix these from the outside of the frame using your screws. These joist will also need supporting with legs (see Step 2).

Step 5: The Facing

Measure along the sides of your frame on the outside and cut your decking boards accordingly. When marking your boards for cutting use a square to give you a clean straight line. Screw these to the outside of the frame making sure you are flush with top. Use your countersink bit when screwing your decking boards to ensure a nice clean finish.

Step 6: The Decking

Once you are happy with the facing you can start the main top decking. Measure across the top of your frame and cut a deck board to size. Place this flush with the frame and face decking and mark where the joists are using your pencil. Countersink each screw hole and put at least 2 screws in each joist along the length of your deck board. Use a spacer to separate each consecutive board that you lay. A screw that you are using is a good quick substitute for this and will give you a 3 – 4mm gap between boards. Carry on this process until you finish the decking.

Tommy’s Tips

To avoid the wooden palette look, you can cut the joists at a 45 degree angle, meaning the decking surface can also be angled at the opposite 45 degrees. Or try splitting the deck in two half sections, with the joists in each section at opposite 45 degree angles, this would allow you to create a lovely chevron look to the surface! I always allow the decking to overhang the frame by 2" (50mm) then I attach a piece of roofing batten to the framework directly under the overhang for extra support; looks good! When you have cut any timber or decking you will have a raw edge. Treating this with some kind of wood stain or wood oil will add years to the life of your decking. If needed, lay some weed membrane down over the area beneath where your decking will go and you can attach some galvanized mesh to the vertical elevations of the deck framework, to avoid foxes creating a den underneath! Never use conventional paint on decks or outside timber construction, only use good quality coloured preservative, like Sikkens, Sadolin, or similar!